My mom called this morning from Oregon to tell me. We had Zur Traube circled in an old Michelin guide for a trip we kept putting off. Two stars for 27 years out of a small Rhineland town, that's not nothing.
Their story
Dieter L. Kaufmann was a German chef who, with his wife Elvira, made the Hotel-Restaurant Zur Traube in his home town of Grevenbroich one of the leading addresses of German fine dining. The restaurant held two Michelin stars from 1983 to 2009, and Kaufmann was named Chef of the Year…
Dieter L. Kaufmann was a German chef who, with his wife Elvira, made the Hotel-Restaurant Zur Traube in his home town of Grevenbroich one of the leading addresses of German fine dining. The restaurant held two Michelin stars from 1983 to 2009, and Kaufmann was named Chef of the Year by Gault Millau in 1994 and by Der Feinschmecker in 2000. He died on 17 October 2026, aged 89.
Kaufmann was born in Grevenbroich, in the Rhineland, on 28 June 1937. He trained first as a pastry cook in Grevenbroich and then as a chef in Düsseldorf. In 1958 he worked at the Grand Hotel Eden in Montreux, Switzerland, while attending the hotel school in Heidelberg until 1959, and then took a post at the Grand Hotel Saltsjöbaden in Sweden. From 1960 he gained experience of front of house service in London, first at the Savoy, where as a young man he encountered Sir Winston Churchill, and then at the Mayfair Hotel.
In March 1962 he returned to Grevenbroich and bought the Hotel-Restaurant Zur Traube on the Bahnhofstraße. Running it together with Elvira, he won his first Michelin star in 1973 and a second in 1983, a level the restaurant held for 27 years until 2009. Gourmets travelled from abroad to eat there, and its guests included the federal president Walter Scheel, Otto Graf Lambsdorff, the North Rhine-Westphalia premiers Heinz Kühn, Johannes Rau and Wolfgang Clement, the racing driver Stirling Moss, the football coaches Hennes Weisweiler and Udo Lattek, and the show jumpers Fritz Thiedemann and Alwin Schockemöhle. His sturgeon parfait with caviar became the dish most associated with him. In 2003 he received the Federal Cross of Merit on ribbon, and the restaurant won the Robert Mondavi Trophy.
Kaufmann closed the restaurant in March 2014, in his 77th year and after 52 years. In 2018 he sold the Gründerzeit building, which was listed as a historic monument the same year, and held a farewell event there. In March 2024 he and Elvira gave their collection of menus, recipes, books and manuscripts to the German Archive of Culinary Arts in Dresden, while photographs, guest books, press cuttings and audiovisual material went to the district archive in Zons.
His death, on Saturday 17 October 2026, was reported by the Rheinische Post on 20 October. No cause of death was made public. The hospitality trade paper AHGZ said that through his restaurant he had shaped German top gastronomy for decades, and the food critic Jürgen Dollase called him a formative personality.
Biography adapted from German Wikipedia (CC BY-SA 4.0); Rheinische Post (20 October 2026).
In their own words
“Kaufmann prägte mit seinem Restaurant über Jahrzehnte die deutsche Spitzengastronomie.”
Allgemeine Hotel- und Gastronomie-Zeitung (AHGZ), quoted by the Rheinische Post, 20 October 2026 ("With his restaurant Kaufmann shaped German top gastronomy for decades")
